Licking is a comforting behavior that a puppy learns from his mom as she cleaned him and weaned him and most dogs will carry this behavior long into adulthood. Let’s face it, dogs lick things. Sometimes this behavior can become a bit excessive even bordering on compulsive so it is up to us as owners to control this behavior before it becomes damaging. In most dogs a little excessive licking is not a problem to the dog himself, but can annoy you and your guests.
It is important to understand why dog slick in the first place. They lick you because they are trying to show you affection, gain attention and get approval. They will also lick because it has a calming effect that they remember from puppyhood. Other dogs simply lick you because it tastes good. Humans are salty and dogs like the taste. They can also lick out of habit. When they were puppies you thought it was cute and gave them attention for it so now they like to do it and think you like it too. As they grow up people stop thinking it is cute, but the dog is the last to know. Some dogs have a dietary imbalance or other underlying medical condition so always get your Veterinarian involved to rule out medical problems. The worst case lickers do so obcessively and can lick their legs, paws and tails until the fur comes off and sores appear. This is a worst case licking scenario those and these dogs often have severe separation anxiety. Regardless of the level of excessive licking your dog engages in; there are steps you can take to reduce this behavior.
The first step in shaping canine behavior is to never give any type of attention to your dog when he exhibits an unwanted behavior. Often people have reactions to behavior that are negative; however, they still provide attention to the dog and any attention is good attention to most dogs and reinforces the very behavior you wish to eliminate. You can practice getting your dog not to lick you directly from your living room sofa. Simply sit down and wait for him to start licking.
When he licks, do not push him away because he will think it is a game and try again. All you need to do in this instance is calmly and quietly get up and leave the room. While pushing him away is more convenient for you it provides attention. If you walk away and ignore your dog he will eventually learn that his licking makes you leave and when he doesn’t lick you stay. When you come back in the room and sit down you can praise him with a soft pet or a good boy if he does not lick when you sit down. Do not make eye contact with him at this point because it will likely encourage him to lick you again.
If you have a dog of the smaller variety who tends to sit on your lap you will need a different strategy. As you calmly and quietly hold your dog on your lap he might choose to begin licking. In this case you can not simply stand up and leave the room because your dog is on your lap. Instead, quietly pick up your dog and place him on the ground before quietly leaving the room. If your dog is particularly excitable when sitting on your lap you will have to repeat this process many times before it is effective. If done properly he will learn that he does not get to sit on your lap if he licks excitably.
Another trick in discouraging this behavior is to think like a dog. If your dog continues to lick you try channeling your inner puppy and squeal or yelp in pain. Dogs will remember their mothers discouraging snap or growl when they made her yelp in pain and will be less likely to repeat the behavior. Remember, dogs want your approval and love so show them what you do not want by rewarding what you do. Your dog will eventually learn that he is welcome amongst his people when he is not licking them incessantly.
As a dog owner there are few things more frustrating than your dog pulling you down the street. You set off for a nice walk on a sunny day with your best friend and the next thing you know you are practically being dragged down the street in pursuit of a squirrel whether you want to chase the squirrel or not! This can be frustrating and embarrassing for you and cause fear and disapproval from others. A dog who walks his owner can frighten some people as they aren’t certain you are able to control your animal. A dog who walks his owner also runs the show and is acting as the pack leader. If you would like to regain your pack leader status, but are unable to make your dog stop pulling armed with only a standard collar and leash, there are other alternatives to safely put you back in charge and allow you to enjoy walking your dog. There are a variety of anti-pull collars on the market today so read up and decide which is best for you and your dog.
1. The Halti and the Gentle Leader: These are not collars at all, but halters similar to those on a horse. They are made of nylon webbing just like a collar, but slip over the muzzle and behind the head and meet with a loop under the muzzle of your dog. Your standard leash clips to the loop under the chin and acts as a guide for your dog. If your dog stays with you and moves in the direction you want him to then he is perfectly comfortable. If he begins pulling or trying to go in the opposite direction the Halti tightens around his mouth. Your dog will not like this so he is more inclined to walk nicely as desired. Haltis or Gentle Leaders must be tight enough not to slip off, but loose enough to not cause discomfort when your dog is walking properly. Some people think that your dog is wearing a muzzle; however, he will be able to freely open his mouth to pant and drink. Aggressive pullers and dogs with short muzzles like boxers or mastiffs have been known to pull out of these leads so it is best to acclimate your dog to them over time so he will not react adversely when out on your walk.
2. Sporn Anti-Pull Harness: The Sporn is a body harness that loops under your dogs front legs and around the body. When a dog pulls the harness causes discomfort to the under arm area and reduces pulling. The Sporn is a little more difficult to put on that the Halti or Gentle Leader; however, it will not come off during normal use. Due to the design of the harness chaffing can occur on the chest and under arm area and is not ideal for dogs with very short hair.
3. Choke Chain: The choke chain is a chain with two loops on either end that can be made into a collar and slipped over your dogs head. The leash is attached to one loop on the collar and when the dog pulls a simple pull on the leash tightens the chain and causes discomfort. Owners must use this tool properly to avoid abusing or choking their dogs. They must learn to jerk once and release as a correction. If they do not learn to release they could be walking around choking their dog, which does not teach the dog anything and could hurt him. Choke collars should be removed when the walk is finished and is never an acceptable collar for daily use. The choke collar works well on smaller dogs who pull aggressively; however larger more aggressive puller sometimes need more motivation not to pull.
4. The Prong Collar: This works similarly to the choke collar; however, it has metal prongs around the dog’s neck and causes pressure through them when the dog is corrected. Some trainers swear by these for larger, stronger breeds who pull aggressively while others say that these collars are medieval torture devices. When used properly they do not result in injury; however, the owner must learn the proper timing and pressure of the leash pull in order for the tool to be effective. These collars are sturdy and will not slip off during normal use, but are never to be used as daily wear collars as dogs can get hung up in them and choke themselves.
With the hot summer months just around the corner, it’s time to refresh your memory about keeping your dog cool during this time of year. It’s normal to want to take your dog outside to enjoy the summer months but there are several precautions you need to take to keep him safe from rising temperatures. Read the steps below to prevent (and treat if necessary) heat exhaustion in your dog.
Step 1: Limit your dog’s exposure to the heat. Pay attention to the heat and humidity and plan accordingly. If the temperatures are rising outside, it’s time to bring your dog inside. If you are unable or unwilling to bring your dog indoors, then you need to provide appropriate shelter for him outdoors. Put a doghouse underneath a shade tree so that he can have some respite from the rising temperatures. On very hot days, it’s not a bad idea to fill a small pool with cool water so that he can lie down in it and cool off. Prevent the water from heating up by making sure it’s in a cool spot in the yard and changing the water frequently.
Step 2: Limit your dog’s exercise during the heat. If you want to keep up your exercise routine with your dog, be sure to exercise early in the morning or late in the evening when the temperature has had time to cool off. Be sure to always carry water and a collapsible water dish with you. Also, refrain from running on the hot sidewalk or pavement and instead stick to dirt trails or grass.
Step 3: Know your dog’s cardio limits and age limitations. If your dog is overweight or aging, the middle of summer is probably not the best time to start his workout routine. You might want to start his workouts on a treadmill in an air-conditioned room before you take him outdoors in the heat.
Step 4: Keep your dog slim and trim. Obesity can be a contributing factor to your dog experiencing heat exhaustion or heat stroke. Try to get your pooch slimmed down by asking your vet for advice about food products and food quantities.
Step 5: Keep your dog’s hair trimmed as well. It’s not necessary for you to shave your dog in order to keep him cool in the heat. In fact, shaving him might put him at risk for sunburn! But, don’t be afraid to trim his long coat for the hot season.
Step 6: Leave your best friend at home. During the summer months it’s never a good idea to take your dog out and about running errands in the car with you. Although there are products that can help keep him cool (such as cool mats for the seat), you never know if you’re going to find yourself in a situation with rising temperatures and malfunctioning air conditioning. If you must take your dog in the car with you, under no circumstance should you ever leave him alone in the car.
Step 7: Be on the lookout for signs and symptoms of heat exhaustion. If your dog is excessively panting or appears weak or wobbly it’s time to cool him off (see step 8). Another way to judge if he is getting overheated is to look at the skin on the underside of his ears; if it has become flushed or red then it’s a good indication your dog is overheated.
Step 8: Know how to treat heat exhaustion. If your dog appears very weak or is losing consciousness, get him to a vet immediately for treatment. If he is overheated, there are a few quick tricks you can do to cool him off. Put his paws in a puddle of cold water to begin cooling him from the feet up. You can soak a towel or bandana in cool water and drape it around his neck to act as a cool compress. You can even apply ice packs to his chest and stomach to lower his temperature. Keep him out of the heat, keep a close eye on him and be alert for signs of further distress or discomfort.
Follow the steps above and be smart about the toll that rising temps can take on our four legged friends. But, don’t be afraid to enjoy the beautiful weather and the companionship of your dog at the same time. This summer, try to participate in activities that will keep both of you cool, such as swimming, taking evening walks or walking on a treadmill indoors.
Doggy doors can be quite a convenience for dog owners and a source of freedom for their pooches. There are a variety of doggie doors on the market including those designed for standard doors, screen doors, sliding glass doors and even garage doors. They provide a place for your pet to come and go on his own for a quick pee break or a few laps around the yard to chase a squirrel. Doggy doors are particularly convenient for owners of puppies or senior dogs who need to use the restroom more often than other dogs. They are also a welcome aid to couch potato owners who would like for their dog to have the option of coming and going as he pleases. Other owners simply feel better knowing that their dog has access to the yard as well as their comfy bed and food bowl while they are away at work.
While a doggy door sounds like the solution to a host of dog problems, it can be a nightmare for some dog owners. Some rush out to purchase a top of the line, energy efficient doggy door and then return home to carefully install it only to find that their dog refuses to go through it. This can be extremely frustrating for you and your dog, but it doesn’t have to be a permanent problem. With some training for your dog combined with some patience from you, your dog will soon be going in and out on his own in no time.
As any training with your dog, start slowly. Let your dog explore the new door upon bringing it home. Let him see you take it out of the box and allow him to sniff it and investigate it on his own terms. Upon installation, let your dog begin the investigation process again all over again without your intervention. The door can be a major road block for some dogs so before you try to get him to go through the door, try tacking or propping the door up and out of the way. Make sure that the door is firmly intact and out of the way because if it falls on your dog during his first attempt to pass he will likely be afraid to try again.
Once your dog seems comfortable with the new door and the door flap is safely out of the way try laying out a trail of irresistible treats from one side of the door to the other. Try small pieces of hot dogs or cheese, not standard treats he gets regularly. Most dogs will go through the door at this point, but if your dog does not, do not force him to do so. Simply allow him to eat the treats inside and try again the next day. Training will work best with a hungry dog so try not feeding him the morning you start training again. Once your dog has followed the treat trail through the door give him plenty of attention and praise. Next time simply try sitting outside of the door holding a treat and call your dog to come through and get it.
After a few days of this try slowly lowering the flap and repeating the treating behavior. Over the next few days repeat this process until he comes through the door flap and all. Be patient during this process. If you force your dog he will likely not want to use the door in the future. You are essentially working to gain your dog’s trust and build his confidence with a new experience. Confident and well-adjusted dogs will sometimes complete this training in a matter of minutes while the more timid variety may take a week or two to push through on their own.
Make your dog’s life as full and pain free as possible
Before humans domesticated dogs they would not survive long in the wild if they had a disability. This would fall under the survival of the fittest philosophy. In modern times dogs living indoors under proper care can live happy and healthy lives uninhibited by their disabilities. While some dogs are born with disabilities they can often pop up when you least expect them through accident or illness. Other disabilities in dogs come about similarly as they do in humans, with age. The most common disabilities among canines are loss of a limb, blindness, deafness and arthritis. Try the following tips to make your dog’s life as full and pain free as possible:
1. Loss of limb: Dogs can adapt fairly easily to life with only three legs. While it might take some time, they will eventually be able to walk and even run on their remaining legs. If your dog looses two legs then you might consider a rolling harness or doggie wheel chair to help him get along independently. A dog missing two front or rear legs can get along just fine with the appropriate gear. There are also slings that cradle your dog by the shoulders with handles that allow you to help him in areas where his wheel chair will not travel.
2. Blindness: Blindness in dogs can result from a head trauma, eye infection or underlying medical condition and can come on suddenly or progress over time. If your dog develops sudden blindness the best thing you can do is give him time to adjust to his new condition. Always announce your presence when you walk in the room and make sure to gently say his name before you pet him. Avoid picking up your pet as he may feel insecure about losing his footing in the beginning stages. Avoid making any changes in furniture arrangements to avoid confusing your dog. Also be careful when bringing him around new dogs during this time because this may cause him to bite out of fear. Be patient, he will likely bark a lot during this time. Some experts suggest that this works similarly to the sonar that bats use in that sound waves bounce off objects helping your dog find his way around. Your dog will adjust and after some time you will hardly be able to tell that he is blind.
3. Deafness: While deafness is a genetic characteristic predominant in some breeds, other dogs can develop deafness through infection or injury. Deafness is surprisingly difficult to assess in dogs. Some dogs just don’t come when called or pay much attention to things while others are alert and attentive. Deaf dogs may frustrate their owners because the owners get tired of the dog not listening to them. Be patient and try to step up their training through non-verbal cues. Try hand signals that correspond with commands such as sit, stay or lie down. You will also need to be vigilant in supervising your deaf dog. While he is relatively safe from danger indoors he is more susceptible to outdoor injuries because he can not hear the sound of traffic, beeping horns or other warning signs.
4. Arthritis: While arthritis can be genetic, dogs generally develop arthritis with age. Arthritis makes it more difficult for your mature dog to get around and causes him pain in the process. There are several things you can do to make your arthritic dog more comfortable including healthy doses of glucosamine and chondroitin, pain and anti-inflammatory medications and special products designed for their comfort. Arthritic dogs benefit from orthopedic foam mattresses to sleep on and while they are more expensive than a standard dog bed, they work miracles for some arthritic dogs.
You will find that with patience and care on the front end that your dog will bounce back quickly from disability. In fact, dogs don’t have the pride and ego that most people do and will often bounce back more quickly than their human counter parts. Be careful to provide special care for your dog, but to avoid over caring for him. Dog’s need a certain level of independence and will learn from a few falls here and there.
Welcome to my blog. I am an agility dog trainer and avid pet lover living my dream. Since I was a little boy, I always wanted to work with pets. Here I will post articles and information on all things related to pets.